Otago Peninsula back to Dunedin 30km
Another lovely day out here on the peninsula. I climbed one more big hill in hopes of seeing a penguin but alas to no success. I guess I'll just have to come back to NZ and try again later. Two days in Dunedin and then back to the northen hemisphere...
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Day 53
Otago Peninsula 60km
I cycled out to the holdiay park in Portobello, unloaded the bike and spent the rest of the day pedalling around the Peninsula. Known as one of the great wildlife areas of NZ I found it to be quite picturesque but sadly did not get a picture of a Penguin. Apparently I had to be at the tip of the peninsula at dusk in order to get close enough to get a photo of a penguin. Sadly the bike is not set up to cycle back to the campsite in the dark. Even if it were the cars on the narrow roads out here are quite intimidating enough in the full light of day. Kind of a bummer, I really wanted to get a picture of a penguin. Of course I could have gotten one if I were to have spent $100 to go on one of the touristy guided sightseeing buses. Instead, after yet another day of very hilly riding I went back to the pub in Portobello, stretched out my knee and watched some Olympics.
I cycled out to the holdiay park in Portobello, unloaded the bike and spent the rest of the day pedalling around the Peninsula. Known as one of the great wildlife areas of NZ I found it to be quite picturesque but sadly did not get a picture of a Penguin. Apparently I had to be at the tip of the peninsula at dusk in order to get close enough to get a photo of a penguin. Sadly the bike is not set up to cycle back to the campsite in the dark. Even if it were the cars on the narrow roads out here are quite intimidating enough in the full light of day. Kind of a bummer, I really wanted to get a picture of a penguin. Of course I could have gotten one if I were to have spent $100 to go on one of the touristy guided sightseeing buses. Instead, after yet another day of very hilly riding I went back to the pub in Portobello, stretched out my knee and watched some Olympics.
Day 52
Dunedin 20km
I spent the day cycling around the lovely town of Dunedin. This is definitely one of my favorite NZ cities. Lots of stately old buildings. The Museum on the campus of the University of Otago was quite nice. I also enjoyed walking around the botanical gardens.
I spent the day cycling around the lovely town of Dunedin. This is definitely one of my favorite NZ cities. Lots of stately old buildings. The Museum on the campus of the University of Otago was quite nice. I also enjoyed walking around the botanical gardens.
Day 51
Ranfurly to MiddleMarch 68km
Middlemarch to Pukarangi (Bus)
Pukarangi to Dunedin (Train)
The final day on the rail trail. Very pleasant: flat, no cars and not too bad gravel. When I arrived in Middlemarch I had the choice of taking the bus to Pukarangi and the train to Middlemarch. I would have had no chance to make the train on the bike and Pukarangi was literally a shed with the word 'Pukarangi' written on it. Middlemarch wasn't a whole lot more so I spent money to be carried into Dunedin. The other choice was the main road and the gradient map made that look pretty intimidating (I guess I'm getting a little tired).
The train trip through the Taeri Gorge was really quite enjoyable and a nice way to end the day in the very stately train station in Dundedin.
Middlemarch to Pukarangi (Bus)
Pukarangi to Dunedin (Train)
The final day on the rail trail. Very pleasant: flat, no cars and not too bad gravel. When I arrived in Middlemarch I had the choice of taking the bus to Pukarangi and the train to Middlemarch. I would have had no chance to make the train on the bike and Pukarangi was literally a shed with the word 'Pukarangi' written on it. Middlemarch wasn't a whole lot more so I spent money to be carried into Dunedin. The other choice was the main road and the gradient map made that look pretty intimidating (I guess I'm getting a little tired).
The train trip through the Taeri Gorge was really quite enjoyable and a nice way to end the day in the very stately train station in Dundedin.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Day 50
Omakau to Ranfurly 53km
I really enjoyed spending the entire afternoon on the rail trail. The surface is quite nice despite being gravel. It was great not worrying about cars, or buses or trucks the entire time. There were quite a few cyclist on the trail and an equal number of pubs to service them. All quite civilized if you ask me. The were a couple of tunnels left over from the train era that the trail passes through. Kind of fun but reinforced the idea that forgoing the Homer tunnel (had I even made it that far) was a wise plan. A little scary cycling in complete darkness. Anyway, the Moniototo plains are interesting, completely different than anything else I've seen in NZ. If one swapped the sheep for fields of potato crops the place could easily pass for southern Idaho.
Tonight marks the final Saturday I'll be sleeping in a tent here in NZ. Kind of a sad milestone. It has been an awesome experience and if I wasn't getting a little tired (and running rather low on funds) I'd have loved to cycle all the way back to Auckland. Oh well, I get to spend several days in Dunedin and am quite looking forward to that.
I really enjoyed spending the entire afternoon on the rail trail. The surface is quite nice despite being gravel. It was great not worrying about cars, or buses or trucks the entire time. There were quite a few cyclist on the trail and an equal number of pubs to service them. All quite civilized if you ask me. The were a couple of tunnels left over from the train era that the trail passes through. Kind of fun but reinforced the idea that forgoing the Homer tunnel (had I even made it that far) was a wise plan. A little scary cycling in complete darkness. Anyway, the Moniototo plains are interesting, completely different than anything else I've seen in NZ. If one swapped the sheep for fields of potato crops the place could easily pass for southern Idaho.
Tonight marks the final Saturday I'll be sleeping in a tent here in NZ. Kind of a sad milestone. It has been an awesome experience and if I wasn't getting a little tired (and running rather low on funds) I'd have loved to cycle all the way back to Auckland. Oh well, I get to spend several days in Dunedin and am quite looking forward to that.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Day 49
Cromwell to Omakau 65km
It was a gorgeous day today. The wind howled throughout the night but it was calm and the sun was out in the morning. The 20km of highway to Clyde was not too bad in terms of trucks and buses. I stopped for lunch in the village and actually ran into Kurt and Tia! I haven't seen them since Wanganui on the north island over a month ago. They had just finished the rail trail form Dunedin and were heading to mount Cook. Other than seeing this dedicated Dutch couple again the best part of the day was leaving the highway and starting down the rail trail. This gravel track sits atop the foundation of the old railway that served as the main transport during the goldrush of the late 19th and early 20th century. Now instead of trains it contains a procession of cyclists and a plethora of pubs to server them. It has been great to cycle along without constantly looking in my rear view mirror for the next sheep truck to buffet me about with a stinky backdraft. The trail is over 180km all the way to Middlemarch. I look forward to two days of quite cycling with no cars, trucks or buses. After Middlemarch I'll take the train to Dunedin, my final destination.
Omakau is a lovely little town. Not much here really but an old hotel. I spent the evening there and the place was packed with locals watching the Highlanders get beat by the Blues. I've watched a few rugby games while in NZ and it is fun to enjoy the game with a bunch of enthusiastic fans, even if they have to watch the home town team get beat. The other nicely appointed building in town is the domain camp site, well equipped with a nice kitchen and showers. The Kiwis really take their vacationing seriously.
It was a gorgeous day today. The wind howled throughout the night but it was calm and the sun was out in the morning. The 20km of highway to Clyde was not too bad in terms of trucks and buses. I stopped for lunch in the village and actually ran into Kurt and Tia! I haven't seen them since Wanganui on the north island over a month ago. They had just finished the rail trail form Dunedin and were heading to mount Cook. Other than seeing this dedicated Dutch couple again the best part of the day was leaving the highway and starting down the rail trail. This gravel track sits atop the foundation of the old railway that served as the main transport during the goldrush of the late 19th and early 20th century. Now instead of trains it contains a procession of cyclists and a plethora of pubs to server them. It has been great to cycle along without constantly looking in my rear view mirror for the next sheep truck to buffet me about with a stinky backdraft. The trail is over 180km all the way to Middlemarch. I look forward to two days of quite cycling with no cars, trucks or buses. After Middlemarch I'll take the train to Dunedin, my final destination.
Omakau is a lovely little town. Not much here really but an old hotel. I spent the evening there and the place was packed with locals watching the Highlanders get beat by the Blues. I've watched a few rugby games while in NZ and it is fun to enjoy the game with a bunch of enthusiastic fans, even if they have to watch the home town team get beat. The other nicely appointed building in town is the domain camp site, well equipped with a nice kitchen and showers. The Kiwis really take their vacationing seriously.
Day 48
Arrowtown to Cromwell 57km
It rained throughout the night and continued steadily into the morning. I thought perhaps the day of cycling in the rain had finally arrived. I dallied about the campsite, spending along time with breakfast then catching up on the blog and by the time I left the clouds had lifted and it was yet another beautiful day on the south island. I must say however the route from Arrowtown to Cromwell was not my favorite. The river gorge was pretty enough (and downhill!) but this is also the main route from Christchurch to Queenstown and it was a day of fast trucks and tourist buses. I was glad to end the day and look forward to reaching the start of the central Otago rail trail tomorrow.
It rained throughout the night and continued steadily into the morning. I thought perhaps the day of cycling in the rain had finally arrived. I dallied about the campsite, spending along time with breakfast then catching up on the blog and by the time I left the clouds had lifted and it was yet another beautiful day on the south island. I must say however the route from Arrowtown to Cromwell was not my favorite. The river gorge was pretty enough (and downhill!) but this is also the main route from Christchurch to Queenstown and it was a day of fast trucks and tourist buses. I was glad to end the day and look forward to reaching the start of the central Otago rail trail tomorrow.
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Day 47
Queenstown to Arrowtown 31km
The knee dictated a rather short day today. I would have taken a day off if it hadn't entailed another night in Queenstown, so I set of for the closest Holiday park in the direction of east. Frankton, being only 10km wasn't quite enough and a bit like Queenstown wasn't what I had in mind so I pressed on to the very quaint and pleasant village of Arrowtown. The place is made up in the fashion of a 19th century mining town (which it was). The place would fit right in anywhere in the Rocky Mountains. Pleasantly deviod of the mass of tourists in Queenstown I had a quite meal and slept for 10 hours. The knee felt much better the next morning.
The knee dictated a rather short day today. I would have taken a day off if it hadn't entailed another night in Queenstown, so I set of for the closest Holiday park in the direction of east. Frankton, being only 10km wasn't quite enough and a bit like Queenstown wasn't what I had in mind so I pressed on to the very quaint and pleasant village of Arrowtown. The place is made up in the fashion of a 19th century mining town (which it was). The place would fit right in anywhere in the Rocky Mountains. Pleasantly deviod of the mass of tourists in Queenstown I had a quite meal and slept for 10 hours. The knee felt much better the next morning.
Dat 46
Mossburn to Queenstown 111 km
What a marvelous day today. It was really cold last night, there was frost on the rainfly this morning. But the sun was out, not a cloud in the sky but the temprature was very mild. The first 50km from Mossburn to Kingston were pleasant enough. One of the easiest roads in terms of gradients since the Cantebury plains outside Christchurch. I arrived at Kingston about 1:00pm. Entirely too early to stop for the day, my knee was feeling better than it has for days and the gorgeous lake Makatipu flanked by the Remarkables lay in front of me. It was just too nice of a day to stop so I didn't.
The last 50km where absolutely gorgeous and it really was a perfect day to cycle along the lake. A second 100+km day in less than three was probably not the best idea however. My knee was pretty stiff the next morning and the Holiday Park in Queenstown was just as crazy as the last time I was here. Even so the Patagonia ice cream at the warf was pretty good. $7.5 for a double scoop and more or less worth it.
What a marvelous day today. It was really cold last night, there was frost on the rainfly this morning. But the sun was out, not a cloud in the sky but the temprature was very mild. The first 50km from Mossburn to Kingston were pleasant enough. One of the easiest roads in terms of gradients since the Cantebury plains outside Christchurch. I arrived at Kingston about 1:00pm. Entirely too early to stop for the day, my knee was feeling better than it has for days and the gorgeous lake Makatipu flanked by the Remarkables lay in front of me. It was just too nice of a day to stop so I didn't.
The last 50km where absolutely gorgeous and it really was a perfect day to cycle along the lake. A second 100+km day in less than three was probably not the best idea however. My knee was pretty stiff the next morning and the Holiday Park in Queenstown was just as crazy as the last time I was here. Even so the Patagonia ice cream at the warf was pretty good. $7.5 for a double scoop and more or less worth it.
Day 45
Te Anau to Mossburn 64km
Today I had intended to head south towards the southern coast and cycle through the 'southern scenic route'. I've been looking forward to seeing the Catlins. However I checked the weather, prepared to pedal through some rain but discovered a forecast of gale force winds along the coast for the next several days. Gale force winds! So, I headed directly east thinking the rail trail through central Otaga with its forcast of sun might be just the ticket. This route has me traveling back to Queenstown but hordes of tourists sounded much better than being blown off the bicycle.
The route to Mossburn was pleasant enough. Not too many buses so I decided not to take the backroad a second time but continued on the route that would have me cycling up the southern end of lake Makatipu tomorrow. Mossburn was yet another not much to it kind of south island NZ town. The camp site was marvelously quite. I talk, or tried to talk with a native who was camping/living there but his accent was so dense I couldn't really understand a word he said. I got the impression he did not much care for the government and felt like living at the camp site would help keep the Man at bay. He also seemed most displeased with all the chemicals they spray around here. I also have been rather suprised by the willingness of the New Zealanders to use toxic chemicals. There is one in particular called 1080, made in the US but banned for use there that the spray all over in an attempt to eradicate Possums. This is a tough call and a very contentious one here in NZ. 1080 is incredibly toxic. Yet if left alone Possums will not only kill of the birds by eating their eggs, but the rodents eat the shoots of new trees and have been steadily wiping out the forest itself. Invasive species are a big problem. I read about a group from Argentina here studying how NZ is coping with invasive species. Apparently in the 1960's 25 breeding pairs of Beavers were introduced into Patagonia and are wreaking havoc there.
Today I had intended to head south towards the southern coast and cycle through the 'southern scenic route'. I've been looking forward to seeing the Catlins. However I checked the weather, prepared to pedal through some rain but discovered a forecast of gale force winds along the coast for the next several days. Gale force winds! So, I headed directly east thinking the rail trail through central Otaga with its forcast of sun might be just the ticket. This route has me traveling back to Queenstown but hordes of tourists sounded much better than being blown off the bicycle.
The route to Mossburn was pleasant enough. Not too many buses so I decided not to take the backroad a second time but continued on the route that would have me cycling up the southern end of lake Makatipu tomorrow. Mossburn was yet another not much to it kind of south island NZ town. The camp site was marvelously quite. I talk, or tried to talk with a native who was camping/living there but his accent was so dense I couldn't really understand a word he said. I got the impression he did not much care for the government and felt like living at the camp site would help keep the Man at bay. He also seemed most displeased with all the chemicals they spray around here. I also have been rather suprised by the willingness of the New Zealanders to use toxic chemicals. There is one in particular called 1080, made in the US but banned for use there that the spray all over in an attempt to eradicate Possums. This is a tough call and a very contentious one here in NZ. 1080 is incredibly toxic. Yet if left alone Possums will not only kill of the birds by eating their eggs, but the rodents eat the shoots of new trees and have been steadily wiping out the forest itself. Invasive species are a big problem. I read about a group from Argentina here studying how NZ is coping with invasive species. Apparently in the 1960's 25 breeding pairs of Beavers were introduced into Patagonia and are wreaking havoc there.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Day 44
Te Anau to Te Anua 110km
Even though it was raining again this morning I packed up and headed towards Milford sound. I had intended to make about 80km up the one way road to camp at Gunn's Lake. Gunn's lake is just before the sound itself and in between is the dreaded Homer tunnel. I have heard nothing but bad things about cycling through the Homer Tunnel all the way to Milford Sound. It is over 1.5km of one way, unlit blackness at about a 10% grade. THere is apparently a timed stoplight of about 15 minutes. Not enough time to climb up. One cyclist in Queenstown told me about trying to make it back up and getting pinned against the side by tourist buses. Yikes. So I was off to Gunn's lake. However I made it about 30km into the magestic scenery, stopped for lunch and was attacked by a cloud of sandflies. I had every inch of skin covered and still somehow a few of the vampires got through my defenses. THe thought of pitching a tent in a strom of bloodsuckers, and worse yet trying to pack up and get on my way the next morning was too much. I turned around, went back to the sandfly free holiday park and watched some olympics.
Even though it was raining again this morning I packed up and headed towards Milford sound. I had intended to make about 80km up the one way road to camp at Gunn's Lake. Gunn's lake is just before the sound itself and in between is the dreaded Homer tunnel. I have heard nothing but bad things about cycling through the Homer Tunnel all the way to Milford Sound. It is over 1.5km of one way, unlit blackness at about a 10% grade. THere is apparently a timed stoplight of about 15 minutes. Not enough time to climb up. One cyclist in Queenstown told me about trying to make it back up and getting pinned against the side by tourist buses. Yikes. So I was off to Gunn's lake. However I made it about 30km into the magestic scenery, stopped for lunch and was attacked by a cloud of sandflies. I had every inch of skin covered and still somehow a few of the vampires got through my defenses. THe thought of pitching a tent in a strom of bloodsuckers, and worse yet trying to pack up and get on my way the next morning was too much. I turned around, went back to the sandfly free holiday park and watched some olympics.
Day 43
Te Anau 0km
It rained very hard last night and the rain continued throughout the morning. I've become quite spoiled by the amazing weather I've enjoyed throughout the journey through NZ thus far. Being a baby and not wanting to get my raincoat wet I paid another $16.50 to keep my tent up at the Holiday park. Shortly therafter the sun came out and a spectacular day of cycling toward Milford Sound was spent on very long nap and then watching The Gangs of New York in the tv lounge. This great Scorese movie happens to also be the one I watched very late the night before departing for NZ. A great movie, though I think camping in the rainforest would have been the better alternative.
It rained very hard last night and the rain continued throughout the morning. I've become quite spoiled by the amazing weather I've enjoyed throughout the journey through NZ thus far. Being a baby and not wanting to get my raincoat wet I paid another $16.50 to keep my tent up at the Holiday park. Shortly therafter the sun came out and a spectacular day of cycling toward Milford Sound was spent on very long nap and then watching The Gangs of New York in the tv lounge. This great Scorese movie happens to also be the one I watched very late the night before departing for NZ. A great movie, though I think camping in the rainforest would have been the better alternative.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Day 42
Lake Marova to Te Anau 67km
Today I continued to make my way down the back road from Queenstown to Te Anau. A sunny day, downhill with a slight tail wind. Again many kilometers without a single car. Just a few cyclist passing by. All heading going north. Am I the only one heading south?
Anyway the bike was pretty dusty by the time I arrived at the junction with the highway heading to Te Anau. After two days of no cars it was kind of a letdown to be back on a sealed road with fast automobiles wizzing past. However my no suspension 90pound bike seemed happy, and I was very glad to have made it on nearly 80km of sometimes rocky gravel with no flats and an intact suited of spokes.
Today I continued to make my way down the back road from Queenstown to Te Anau. A sunny day, downhill with a slight tail wind. Again many kilometers without a single car. Just a few cyclist passing by. All heading going north. Am I the only one heading south?
Anyway the bike was pretty dusty by the time I arrived at the junction with the highway heading to Te Anau. After two days of no cars it was kind of a letdown to be back on a sealed road with fast automobiles wizzing past. However my no suspension 90pound bike seemed happy, and I was very glad to have made it on nearly 80km of sometimes rocky gravel with no flats and an intact suited of spokes.
Day 41
Queenstown to lake Marova 58km
Today was a uniquely spectacular day of cycling here on the south island. I got a rather late start. The holiday park in Queenstown is something of a zoo and the drunk car camper set up next to my tent kept me up all night with his mindless yammering. Only a minor compaint on an otherwise nice visit to Queenstown. I took my time in the kitchen making one toasted egg and ham sandwich after another while drinking more than my usual amount of coffee. I had booked passage on the TSS (twin screw steamer) Earnslaw for 10:00am and finally arrived at the dock for the 2:00pm crossing of Lake Wakatipu.
The Earnslaw was an interesting way to travel. The ship is a coal powered steamer originally built in Dunedin in 1912 that has been plying the gorgeous waters of lake Wakatipu ever since. I embarked on the day the first female captain in its history was guiding the ship across the lake.
After arriving in Walter station--and leaving the hordes of tourists behind I set off on the "back road" to Te Anau. The back road is a one lane gravel track that undulated along the lake for several kilometers before heading south into the NZ wilderness. What a perfect change from the chaos in Queenstown. Nothing but a few passing cyclists, the sheep and the cows for company. After climbing yet one more outlandishly steep and tall south island hill I found myself alone with nothing but rugged mountains in every direction.
I made it to the DoC campsite at lake Marova just as the sun was going down. After the madhouse of the holiday park in Queenstown setting up my tent next to a beautiful lake with nothing but a few sandflies to keep me up was wonderful. After enjoying an excellent bit of freezed dried curry beef I slept soundly for nearly 11 hours.
Today was a uniquely spectacular day of cycling here on the south island. I got a rather late start. The holiday park in Queenstown is something of a zoo and the drunk car camper set up next to my tent kept me up all night with his mindless yammering. Only a minor compaint on an otherwise nice visit to Queenstown. I took my time in the kitchen making one toasted egg and ham sandwich after another while drinking more than my usual amount of coffee. I had booked passage on the TSS (twin screw steamer) Earnslaw for 10:00am and finally arrived at the dock for the 2:00pm crossing of Lake Wakatipu.
The Earnslaw was an interesting way to travel. The ship is a coal powered steamer originally built in Dunedin in 1912 that has been plying the gorgeous waters of lake Wakatipu ever since. I embarked on the day the first female captain in its history was guiding the ship across the lake.
After arriving in Walter station--and leaving the hordes of tourists behind I set off on the "back road" to Te Anau. The back road is a one lane gravel track that undulated along the lake for several kilometers before heading south into the NZ wilderness. What a perfect change from the chaos in Queenstown. Nothing but a few passing cyclists, the sheep and the cows for company. After climbing yet one more outlandishly steep and tall south island hill I found myself alone with nothing but rugged mountains in every direction.
I made it to the DoC campsite at lake Marova just as the sun was going down. After the madhouse of the holiday park in Queenstown setting up my tent next to a beautiful lake with nothing but a few sandflies to keep me up was wonderful. After enjoying an excellent bit of freezed dried curry beef I slept soundly for nearly 11 hours.
Day 40
Queenstown 0km
I really need a day of so I stayed here in Queenstown. It is amazing the vast array of activities the locals have come up with to separate the hordes of tourists from their money. I managed to refrain and spent the day in the Queenstown gardens writing in my notebook.
I really need a day of so I stayed here in Queenstown. It is amazing the vast array of activities the locals have come up with to separate the hordes of tourists from their money. I managed to refrain and spent the day in the Queenstown gardens writing in my notebook.
Monday, February 8, 2010
Day 39
Wanaka to Queenstown 72 km
The decision to take the crown pass road to Queenstown seemed the best plan at the begining of the day--at the bottom of the mountain. The other route was 120km along route 6, which meant about two days for me. Two days of a route plagued by an endless procession of tourist buses making the pilgrimage from FChristchurch to the ultimate NZ tourist mecca of Queenstown. Tourist buses and thier drivers are the south island's answer to the logging trucks of the north island. Gigantic machines with little interst in deflecting their path for the likes of a bicycle. Climbing 1000 meters to the highest sealed road in NZ seemed a much better alternative.
The first 40km were not so bad, a long steady climb past the ski resort of Cardrona. After viewing the biggest resort in NZ I must say I'm quite spoiled when it comes to lift serviced ski terrain. ANyway the last 10km to the summit were rather steep. HOwever once at the top the views down into Queenstown were almost worth it. Almost. The descent was quite challenging, very steep with a stiff sidewind making it kind of dangerous. My hands were quite numb form gripping the brakes by the time I made it to the bottom. I must say I think I prefer mountian bike type handle bars to the classic touring variety. Anyway, after regioning the highway for the last few kilometers into Queesntown and sharing the road with a few buses I decided the crown pass was definitely the better option. Then I came across the dirt cycle path from Frankton to Queenstown. Perfect!
Queenstown istself is a rather interesting place, very much like Jackson Hole in Wyoming. COmplete with a stunning range of mountains. APparently the locals feel the same having named the range 'the remarkables'. Certainly in their own way as impressive as the Tetons.
The decision to take the crown pass road to Queenstown seemed the best plan at the begining of the day--at the bottom of the mountain. The other route was 120km along route 6, which meant about two days for me. Two days of a route plagued by an endless procession of tourist buses making the pilgrimage from FChristchurch to the ultimate NZ tourist mecca of Queenstown. Tourist buses and thier drivers are the south island's answer to the logging trucks of the north island. Gigantic machines with little interst in deflecting their path for the likes of a bicycle. Climbing 1000 meters to the highest sealed road in NZ seemed a much better alternative.
The first 40km were not so bad, a long steady climb past the ski resort of Cardrona. After viewing the biggest resort in NZ I must say I'm quite spoiled when it comes to lift serviced ski terrain. ANyway the last 10km to the summit were rather steep. HOwever once at the top the views down into Queenstown were almost worth it. Almost. The descent was quite challenging, very steep with a stiff sidewind making it kind of dangerous. My hands were quite numb form gripping the brakes by the time I made it to the bottom. I must say I think I prefer mountian bike type handle bars to the classic touring variety. Anyway, after regioning the highway for the last few kilometers into Queesntown and sharing the road with a few buses I decided the crown pass was definitely the better option. Then I came across the dirt cycle path from Frankton to Queenstown. Perfect!
Queenstown istself is a rather interesting place, very much like Jackson Hole in Wyoming. COmplete with a stunning range of mountains. APparently the locals feel the same having named the range 'the remarkables'. Certainly in their own way as impressive as the Tetons.
Day 38
Makarora to Wanaka 65km
Today marked a bit of a milestone as I passed my 2000km here in NZ. And it was yet another gorgeous day here on the south island. After crossing(surviving) Haast pass the day before I entered the central Otago region where the scenery is quite different than the west coast. Gone is the rain forest (and sandflies!). The very impressive mountains, often snow-capped remain in the view and I spent the day cycling past the beautiful lakes of Wanaka and Hawea.
The town of Wananka was quite pleasant, but it was very, very hot when I arrived and I spent the afternoon inside a local pub watching the superbowl. Watching by myeself as everyone else was outside enjoying the beautiful day. After the game I took a long nap and then went out and had a very large pizza all to myself. I need lots of fuel for tomorrows climb to the highest road in NZ as I make my way to the ultimate tourist trap of Queenstown.
Today marked a bit of a milestone as I passed my 2000km here in NZ. And it was yet another gorgeous day here on the south island. After crossing(surviving) Haast pass the day before I entered the central Otago region where the scenery is quite different than the west coast. Gone is the rain forest (and sandflies!). The very impressive mountains, often snow-capped remain in the view and I spent the day cycling past the beautiful lakes of Wanaka and Hawea.
The town of Wananka was quite pleasant, but it was very, very hot when I arrived and I spent the afternoon inside a local pub watching the superbowl. Watching by myeself as everyone else was outside enjoying the beautiful day. After the game I took a long nap and then went out and had a very large pizza all to myself. I need lots of fuel for tomorrows climb to the highest road in NZ as I make my way to the ultimate tourist trap of Queenstown.
Day 37
Haast township to Makarora 86 km
A truely amazing day today.
First off the weather called for rain making its way up the entire south island today. It did not rain on me. The sandfiles however were absolutely atrocious this morning. The worst since Mariua Springs. I was really wondering how I could take much more of these beasites when I finally pedalled away from them. The i-center here had a version of the Maori legend about sandfiles set up next to a big rack of completely ineffectual insect potions, right next to the snake oil. In this version the Goddess, fearful that the humans might mistakenly believe they were in paradise and want to live for ever, sent the sandflies to remind them of their mortality. The deeper truth of this bit of mythology became apparent as I made my way up the Haast river gorge. The incredible beauty of the the snow-capped mountains jutting out of the dense rainforest is not possible to describe adequately in words--at least for me and my limited linguistic abilities. I tried to capture some of it with my little camera, but technology also fails to capture the granduer of the place. It really is true that around each bend in the road is yet another incredible vista.
About 50km into the day, just before the big climn to the top of Haast pass I stopped at a DOC site called 'pleasant flat'. Pedallers' Paradise lists its amenities as 'toilet,table, sandflies'. Now sondflies are everywhere here in this part of the south island (18 varieties in fact) so what Nigel meant was the place is completely unsuited for humans not wearing a full body prophylactic. Somehow I managed to cook a bit of pasta, to a photot of the amazing glacier and fled at a brisk 15kph. Just after my lunch battle I past a very lean German cyclist going the other direction. We stopped breifly and talked across the road. This guy was completing the 140km from Wanaka to Haast in a single day! 100km the day before nearly did me in. Anyway he mentioned that I had 'a little bit of work ahead'. No kidding. The climb up to the top of Haast pass was the most difficult uphill I've done so far. On one memorable 2km stretch I took almost an hour, stopping every couple of hundred meters to take yet another photo of yet another waterfall and try to get my heart rate down. It was almost 6:00pm when I finally limped into Makarora, the first place with a roof since Haast village. Fortunantely the roof covered a marvelous little pub attached to a shower. And thetre were almost no sandflies, paradise indeed.
A truely amazing day today.
First off the weather called for rain making its way up the entire south island today. It did not rain on me. The sandfiles however were absolutely atrocious this morning. The worst since Mariua Springs. I was really wondering how I could take much more of these beasites when I finally pedalled away from them. The i-center here had a version of the Maori legend about sandfiles set up next to a big rack of completely ineffectual insect potions, right next to the snake oil. In this version the Goddess, fearful that the humans might mistakenly believe they were in paradise and want to live for ever, sent the sandflies to remind them of their mortality. The deeper truth of this bit of mythology became apparent as I made my way up the Haast river gorge. The incredible beauty of the the snow-capped mountains jutting out of the dense rainforest is not possible to describe adequately in words--at least for me and my limited linguistic abilities. I tried to capture some of it with my little camera, but technology also fails to capture the granduer of the place. It really is true that around each bend in the road is yet another incredible vista.
About 50km into the day, just before the big climn to the top of Haast pass I stopped at a DOC site called 'pleasant flat'. Pedallers' Paradise lists its amenities as 'toilet,table, sandflies'. Now sondflies are everywhere here in this part of the south island (18 varieties in fact) so what Nigel meant was the place is completely unsuited for humans not wearing a full body prophylactic. Somehow I managed to cook a bit of pasta, to a photot of the amazing glacier and fled at a brisk 15kph. Just after my lunch battle I past a very lean German cyclist going the other direction. We stopped breifly and talked across the road. This guy was completing the 140km from Wanaka to Haast in a single day! 100km the day before nearly did me in. Anyway he mentioned that I had 'a little bit of work ahead'. No kidding. The climb up to the top of Haast pass was the most difficult uphill I've done so far. On one memorable 2km stretch I took almost an hour, stopping every couple of hundred meters to take yet another photo of yet another waterfall and try to get my heart rate down. It was almost 6:00pm when I finally limped into Makarora, the first place with a roof since Haast village. Fortunantely the roof covered a marvelous little pub attached to a shower. And thetre were almost no sandflies, paradise indeed.
Friday, February 5, 2010
Day 36
Lake Parangia to Haast Village 54km
What an excellent day today. After a very long, very restful sleep in the non-Bates motel I made my way through some of the most scenic terrain of the trip down the west coast. The sun was out again today after two overcast days and the southern Alps were quite spectaular. The views the previous two days would have been awesome if the mountains hadn't been shrouded in clouds, but all thinhgs considered its been an amazing trip down the usually drenched west coast.
Today I got some of the best pictures of the whole trip. I really haven't succeeded in capturing the granduer of this amazing place with the camera. But I think I got a few memorable ones today.
After a comparatively gentle climb up to the coastal bluffs of knight's point I stopped for lunch and came across one of the 'supported' cycling tours I've heard about. For these cyclists a well equipped van carries them, their bikes and luggage tot the top of a summit where they all get out, put on their gear and coast to the bottom of the next hill. Incidentally this group included the first Americans on push-bikes I've come across. A very nice couple from California seemed quite impressed that I'd pedalled my bike up the puney hill they were about to descend. Admittedly cycling the ups along with the downs throughout NZ is probably not the best idea without a good deal of prior experience.
Anyway, I had my peanutbutter and banana sandwich and was off before loosing too much precious blood to the vampires. After descending the last of the three hills of knight's point--the supported cyclist heading north had stopped, or I should say started, at the last of the hills--I came upon across a trailhead leading to what looked to be a pleasant coastal walk. I pulled in and was getting my hiking shoes out when a backpacker bus roared in trailing a thick plum of dust and began disgorging its loud, backpack festooned occupants. So much for a quiet walk on the beach. Oh well, the road was comparatively quite so I set off to listen to the birds.
Upon arriving at Haast Bridge I went to the i-center to assess the camping options, but the place was full of enornous tourist buses and dozens of their sunburned tourists stopping for insect repellent and soveneirs. I sounds like I'm complaining but I've obsevered many toursit in my time here. Many, many camper vans, and rental cars and tourist buses, and backpaker buses and even with the ubiquitous uphill parts I think, for me, cycling is the best way to see this amazing country.
What an excellent day today. After a very long, very restful sleep in the non-Bates motel I made my way through some of the most scenic terrain of the trip down the west coast. The sun was out again today after two overcast days and the southern Alps were quite spectaular. The views the previous two days would have been awesome if the mountains hadn't been shrouded in clouds, but all thinhgs considered its been an amazing trip down the usually drenched west coast.
Today I got some of the best pictures of the whole trip. I really haven't succeeded in capturing the granduer of this amazing place with the camera. But I think I got a few memorable ones today.
After a comparatively gentle climb up to the coastal bluffs of knight's point I stopped for lunch and came across one of the 'supported' cycling tours I've heard about. For these cyclists a well equipped van carries them, their bikes and luggage tot the top of a summit where they all get out, put on their gear and coast to the bottom of the next hill. Incidentally this group included the first Americans on push-bikes I've come across. A very nice couple from California seemed quite impressed that I'd pedalled my bike up the puney hill they were about to descend. Admittedly cycling the ups along with the downs throughout NZ is probably not the best idea without a good deal of prior experience.
Anyway, I had my peanutbutter and banana sandwich and was off before loosing too much precious blood to the vampires. After descending the last of the three hills of knight's point--the supported cyclist heading north had stopped, or I should say started, at the last of the hills--I came upon across a trailhead leading to what looked to be a pleasant coastal walk. I pulled in and was getting my hiking shoes out when a backpacker bus roared in trailing a thick plum of dust and began disgorging its loud, backpack festooned occupants. So much for a quiet walk on the beach. Oh well, the road was comparatively quite so I set off to listen to the birds.
Upon arriving at Haast Bridge I went to the i-center to assess the camping options, but the place was full of enornous tourist buses and dozens of their sunburned tourists stopping for insect repellent and soveneirs. I sounds like I'm complaining but I've obsevered many toursit in my time here. Many, many camper vans, and rental cars and tourist buses, and backpaker buses and even with the ubiquitous uphill parts I think, for me, cycling is the best way to see this amazing country.
Day 35
Franz Joseph to Lake Parangia 100km
I didn't sleep too well last night. They had the tents packed in so tightly here I was feeling a bit claustraphobic. Up with the sun I found the kitchen was deserted and I took my time making one toasted ham and egg sandwich after another. Good thing too as I burned many, many calories traversing the mountains betwee Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers later that morning. Three summits in 23km each of more than 250 meters. Probably the most difficult climbing since the Coromandel. In Fox I took a long and leisurely lunch,waiting over an hour for the bread shipment to arrive at the local store. Feeling re-energized after eating I actually went 4km up a gravel road to take a picture of the Fox glacier. It was almost worth it. Seeing an enormous glacier carving its way through a dense rainforest is really impressive. Then I was off heading south into the NZ hinterland.
This part of the west coast is very desolate indeed. Dense forest occasionally opening up along the many streams flowing out of the mountains to the east. There are a few 'towns' listed on the map out here, usually nothing more than a house or two. The town of Karnagiua was nothing more than a mailbox and a gravel road heading off in the distance.
I was making my way to a place called 'Jacob's River' where Pedallers' Paradise listed a motel with campsites. I did indeed find a motel at about 73km in, a motel with no patrons and no proprieter. It may have been closed, but the place had a rather Bates Motel kind of feel to it. Considering my options, such as they were I continued on south keeping my eye open for a possible camp site. The terrain continued with the occasional cow pasture (no thanks) between impenetrable forest.
At about 85km I noticed a dirt path heading to the west where I could hear the ocean. I pushed the bike about 100meters and came upon the most beautiful, deserted beach. Perfect! I looked about for a flat spot to pitch the tent when I was suddenly set up by sandflies. The worst horde of the little bloodsuckers since Mariua Springs. No wonder this gorgeous beach was devoid of human life. I barely escaped with enough blood in me to continue my journey south. After making my escape I wondered what the little vampires eat in between visits by unwitting cyclists. Perhaps they lay dormant in their little sandfy coffins till the next walking bloodbank stumbles upon their scenic domain.
Me and my new welts pressed on towards Lake Parangia where Pedallers' Paradise promised a DOC campsite. I planned on having the tent up and being safetly ensconsed inside before loosing what remained of my precious blood supply when I came up a much less creepy motel offering a bed for $35. Inside and away from the swarming vampires for the very nice price of $35! With way too many km showing on the cyclocomputer I finally stopped, took a nice long shower and slept soundly on a mattress for the first time in two weeks.
I didn't sleep too well last night. They had the tents packed in so tightly here I was feeling a bit claustraphobic. Up with the sun I found the kitchen was deserted and I took my time making one toasted ham and egg sandwich after another. Good thing too as I burned many, many calories traversing the mountains betwee Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers later that morning. Three summits in 23km each of more than 250 meters. Probably the most difficult climbing since the Coromandel. In Fox I took a long and leisurely lunch,waiting over an hour for the bread shipment to arrive at the local store. Feeling re-energized after eating I actually went 4km up a gravel road to take a picture of the Fox glacier. It was almost worth it. Seeing an enormous glacier carving its way through a dense rainforest is really impressive. Then I was off heading south into the NZ hinterland.
This part of the west coast is very desolate indeed. Dense forest occasionally opening up along the many streams flowing out of the mountains to the east. There are a few 'towns' listed on the map out here, usually nothing more than a house or two. The town of Karnagiua was nothing more than a mailbox and a gravel road heading off in the distance.
I was making my way to a place called 'Jacob's River' where Pedallers' Paradise listed a motel with campsites. I did indeed find a motel at about 73km in, a motel with no patrons and no proprieter. It may have been closed, but the place had a rather Bates Motel kind of feel to it. Considering my options, such as they were I continued on south keeping my eye open for a possible camp site. The terrain continued with the occasional cow pasture (no thanks) between impenetrable forest.
At about 85km I noticed a dirt path heading to the west where I could hear the ocean. I pushed the bike about 100meters and came upon the most beautiful, deserted beach. Perfect! I looked about for a flat spot to pitch the tent when I was suddenly set up by sandflies. The worst horde of the little bloodsuckers since Mariua Springs. No wonder this gorgeous beach was devoid of human life. I barely escaped with enough blood in me to continue my journey south. After making my escape I wondered what the little vampires eat in between visits by unwitting cyclists. Perhaps they lay dormant in their little sandfy coffins till the next walking bloodbank stumbles upon their scenic domain.
Me and my new welts pressed on towards Lake Parangia where Pedallers' Paradise promised a DOC campsite. I planned on having the tent up and being safetly ensconsed inside before loosing what remained of my precious blood supply when I came up a much less creepy motel offering a bed for $35. Inside and away from the swarming vampires for the very nice price of $35! With way too many km showing on the cyclocomputer I finally stopped, took a nice long shower and slept soundly on a mattress for the first time in two weeks.
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Day 34
Harihari to Franz Joseph Glacier 76km
Another fairly long day today, but under overcast skies throughout the day. A nice change from the blazing sun that has accompanied me each day on the normally rainy west coast. It was another nice day of tracking through the native rain forest occasionally passing through a river valley dedicated to dairy farming. I've seen very few sheep here in contrast to the east side of the island which is filled with the fuzzy little creatures.
There were a few hills along the route today one with the intimidating name of Hercules. But it turned out to be not too difficult. The look of the hills tomorrow between Franz Joseph and Fox look a lot more serious, nearly 1.3 km up straight up. But that is tomorrow. Today I'm here in the super touristy town of Franz Joseph. About every ten minutes or so a helicopter takes off to provide the occupants a very expensive view of the glacier. One can even rent, for $100, an electric bicycle that will carry one up to the foot of the glacier. I of course rode my 100 pound bike to take the obligatory picture.
The holiday park has the tents quite tightly packed in. So much so I briefly considered completing the 20km to Fox, but the hills between here and there seemed a bit much at this point in the day. I found it necessary to set up very close indeed to a German couple on a four month tour of NZ. This is after they've completing the journey from Hanoi to Bangkok and then a few thousand kilometers of Australia. Next they are off to cycle from Alaska to Toronto. I'm not sure at this point if I could actually pedal my bike for an entire year, but I'm up for a few more thousand km here in NZ for sure.
Another fairly long day today, but under overcast skies throughout the day. A nice change from the blazing sun that has accompanied me each day on the normally rainy west coast. It was another nice day of tracking through the native rain forest occasionally passing through a river valley dedicated to dairy farming. I've seen very few sheep here in contrast to the east side of the island which is filled with the fuzzy little creatures.
There were a few hills along the route today one with the intimidating name of Hercules. But it turned out to be not too difficult. The look of the hills tomorrow between Franz Joseph and Fox look a lot more serious, nearly 1.3 km up straight up. But that is tomorrow. Today I'm here in the super touristy town of Franz Joseph. About every ten minutes or so a helicopter takes off to provide the occupants a very expensive view of the glacier. One can even rent, for $100, an electric bicycle that will carry one up to the foot of the glacier. I of course rode my 100 pound bike to take the obligatory picture.
The holiday park has the tents quite tightly packed in. So much so I briefly considered completing the 20km to Fox, but the hills between here and there seemed a bit much at this point in the day. I found it necessary to set up very close indeed to a German couple on a four month tour of NZ. This is after they've completing the journey from Hanoi to Bangkok and then a few thousand kilometers of Australia. Next they are off to cycle from Alaska to Toronto. I'm not sure at this point if I could actually pedal my bike for an entire year, but I'm up for a few more thousand km here in NZ for sure.
Day 33
Hokitika to Harihari 75km
After a few km of farm land past Hokitika the road re-entered the rain forest. It is a real treat cycling through the native bush of the west coast, particularly after the ubiquitous forest plantations of the north island.
75km was a rather longish distance for me on another unseasonably hot and sunny day here on the coast. But often the enormous trees would close in a provide welcome shade. I've grown quite fond of listening to the sounds of the forest while pedaling along. All the various forest creatures stop singing when a car or worse a truck zooms past, but that fortunately doesn't happen too often. Since arriving on the south island the number of automobiles has decreased quite nicely. The number of touring cyclists has increased quite a substantially over the north island as well. This is definitely the better place for riding a 'pushbike'. I've past several cyclist each day since arriving on the south island. There are three groups including myself at the campsite here in Harihari. I passed two couples on tandems heading north earlier in the day.
After arriving in Harihari I didn't see any Chrisnas but I did find a nice pub and spent the early part of the evening trying to figure out the rather inscrutable game of cricket. I think NZ was winning their match against Bangladesh, but I'm not completely certain. There were a few locals cheering at various points in the game that help suggest that the NZ team had made a particularly good play.
After a few km of farm land past Hokitika the road re-entered the rain forest. It is a real treat cycling through the native bush of the west coast, particularly after the ubiquitous forest plantations of the north island.
75km was a rather longish distance for me on another unseasonably hot and sunny day here on the coast. But often the enormous trees would close in a provide welcome shade. I've grown quite fond of listening to the sounds of the forest while pedaling along. All the various forest creatures stop singing when a car or worse a truck zooms past, but that fortunately doesn't happen too often. Since arriving on the south island the number of automobiles has decreased quite nicely. The number of touring cyclists has increased quite a substantially over the north island as well. This is definitely the better place for riding a 'pushbike'. I've past several cyclist each day since arriving on the south island. There are three groups including myself at the campsite here in Harihari. I passed two couples on tandems heading north earlier in the day.
After arriving in Harihari I didn't see any Chrisnas but I did find a nice pub and spent the early part of the evening trying to figure out the rather inscrutable game of cricket. I think NZ was winning their match against Bangladesh, but I'm not completely certain. There were a few locals cheering at various points in the game that help suggest that the NZ team had made a particularly good play.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Day 32
Greymouth to Hokitika 38km
After seven straight days of fairly difficult cycling I thought I might take a rest day. Greymouth didn't have much of interest however so about 1:00pm I made my way down the coast to Hokitika. The road through the coastal plain was very flat, a bit like Christchurch and I made the 38km in just over 2 hours. It's the shortest and easiest distance I've made while here in NZ, so kind of like a rest day.
After a shower and a long walk on the lovely beach I went into town to see the Clint Eastwood film Invicitus. The film touches on something of a sore point for the Kiwis. The national rugby team tends to completely dominate in international competition only to lose the world cup. Apparently something the All Blacks have been doing with some regularity is now immortalized in Clint's new film.
The local paper had a review of the film of sorts. It didn't actually have much to say about the film instead discussing at length an important detail not actually in the film. Apparently the beloved All Blacks came down with food poisoning the day before the big game. Obviously on purpose as far as the film reviewer was concerned. I thought it was a pretty good movie though I wasn't able to gauge the reaction of the four other people in the theatre.
After seven straight days of fairly difficult cycling I thought I might take a rest day. Greymouth didn't have much of interest however so about 1:00pm I made my way down the coast to Hokitika. The road through the coastal plain was very flat, a bit like Christchurch and I made the 38km in just over 2 hours. It's the shortest and easiest distance I've made while here in NZ, so kind of like a rest day.
After a shower and a long walk on the lovely beach I went into town to see the Clint Eastwood film Invicitus. The film touches on something of a sore point for the Kiwis. The national rugby team tends to completely dominate in international competition only to lose the world cup. Apparently something the All Blacks have been doing with some regularity is now immortalized in Clint's new film.
The local paper had a review of the film of sorts. It didn't actually have much to say about the film instead discussing at length an important detail not actually in the film. Apparently the beloved All Blacks came down with food poisoning the day before the big game. Obviously on purpose as far as the film reviewer was concerned. I thought it was a pretty good movie though I wasn't able to gauge the reaction of the four other people in the theatre.
Monday, February 1, 2010
Day 31
Punakaiki to Greymouth 56km
The campsite at Punakaiki was very nice: enormous limestone cliffs to the west and the ocean to the east, and only $10. I spent the morning walking on the beach waiting for good light to take pictures.
The trip to Greymouth was one of the best scenery-wise of the entire trip. Many, many high bluffs to climb but at the top of each yet another incredible view. So far the west coast is much more impressive than the east. It was anther scorching day here on the west coast, the region of NZ known for lots of rain. A bit of a weather update: throughout my time on the north island I keep hearing about how it was still winter on the south island. A British couple in Wanganui told me of spending the second day of January stuck in a torrential downpour for over eight hours (in their car) where flooding had washed away the road near Fox glacier. I'll be there in two or three days. Now that I'm here on the south island there is a massive low covering the north island complete with hailstorms and flooding throughout the east cape. At some point I'm surely going to get blasted by bad weather...
Anyway, on this day it was really hot but quite beautiful and I took many photos and drank lots of water. Greymouth itself is a pleasant enough town, though I have noticed in each of the NZ towns I've visited the place is completely deserted by 7:00pm. I got a campsite at a backpackers which pleasantly enough was actually quite.
As in Westport they actually burn coal to heat the water in the building. An actual coal burning stove was in use in the kitchen. Haven't seen that since Granny's house in Afton. During the night the famous westerly winds were absent and, as in Westport I smelled coal burning throughout the night. I shouldn't complain, in Utah coal fires run the power plants but the pollution is way out in the desert were we can pretend it doesn't directly affect us. Early I posted that global climate change is taken a evident here in NZ. Apparently not, I read in the local paper a column called 'ask the minister' who in response to a question about global climate change declared, if I may paraphrase, the entire issue to be an elaborate hoax perpetrated by godless secular humanists unwittingly doing the bidding of the anti-Christ.
The campsite at Punakaiki was very nice: enormous limestone cliffs to the west and the ocean to the east, and only $10. I spent the morning walking on the beach waiting for good light to take pictures.
The trip to Greymouth was one of the best scenery-wise of the entire trip. Many, many high bluffs to climb but at the top of each yet another incredible view. So far the west coast is much more impressive than the east. It was anther scorching day here on the west coast, the region of NZ known for lots of rain. A bit of a weather update: throughout my time on the north island I keep hearing about how it was still winter on the south island. A British couple in Wanganui told me of spending the second day of January stuck in a torrential downpour for over eight hours (in their car) where flooding had washed away the road near Fox glacier. I'll be there in two or three days. Now that I'm here on the south island there is a massive low covering the north island complete with hailstorms and flooding throughout the east cape. At some point I'm surely going to get blasted by bad weather...
Anyway, on this day it was really hot but quite beautiful and I took many photos and drank lots of water. Greymouth itself is a pleasant enough town, though I have noticed in each of the NZ towns I've visited the place is completely deserted by 7:00pm. I got a campsite at a backpackers which pleasantly enough was actually quite.
As in Westport they actually burn coal to heat the water in the building. An actual coal burning stove was in use in the kitchen. Haven't seen that since Granny's house in Afton. During the night the famous westerly winds were absent and, as in Westport I smelled coal burning throughout the night. I shouldn't complain, in Utah coal fires run the power plants but the pollution is way out in the desert were we can pretend it doesn't directly affect us. Early I posted that global climate change is taken a evident here in NZ. Apparently not, I read in the local paper a column called 'ask the minister' who in response to a question about global climate change declared, if I may paraphrase, the entire issue to be an elaborate hoax perpetrated by godless secular humanists unwittingly doing the bidding of the anti-Christ.
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