Ranana to Wanganui 61 km
Today was a spectacular day of cycling. Perhaps the best of the trip so far. It rained lightly last night but there wasn't a cloud in the sky when the sun came up. After making a fine breakfast of oatmeal and bananas with a mound of honey I bid farewell to the American family camping nearby and was on my way. The Americans were a minister from Michigan, his wife and too many cute little kids to count. They had been living in NZ for about four years and the kids were quite enthusiastic about their time here. Oddly it was a Sunday when they were camping so I didn't ask how business was going.
The trip down the Wanganui river road really was something. A lot like I imagined rural NZ before coming here: A verdant rain forest covering sheer mountains to either side of the river. My journey down the river was mostly downhill and the gravel changed to pavement not 15 minutes into the start of the day. For the entire trip down the river I passed 5 cars and a dozen canoeists. Along the way were a number of lovely picnic spots where I had second breakfast, lunch and supper. Even the final hill up and out of the river gorge was okay ending with yet another picnic table where I had dinner.
When I arrived at the i-site in Wanganui to inquire about camping I ran into Kurt and Tia! Turns out they had followed the same route as I about a day ahead. On their crossing of the volcanic plateau they were hit by drenching cold rain. I have been really lucky so far with the weather. They were also much more prepared for the gravel as their bikes are equipped with big fat mountain bike tires. They, being the incredible cyclist they are, have decided to pedal almost all the way to Wellington. I've heard nothing good about the cycling from Wanganui to Wellington. My book describes it as "flat/boring farming country" and the road near Wellington "the most dangerous in NZ". No thanks. I arranged bus passage for me and my bike to Wellington and a ferry to take us both to the south island. After 5 days straight I'm ready for a day off.
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