Day 22

Marfell's beach to Pedaller's Rest Cyclist Hostel near Kekerengu 28 km

Perhaps I've written a bit too much about my luck with the weather as it end rather spectacularly today. It began pleasantly enough with a nice, not too windy, overcast morning. I made some coffee and spent a good while talking with Pete, who lives in the camper next to where I'd pitched my tent. Pete pointed out all his favorite taverns around the south island and had my route pretty much set for me by the time I bid he and Clyve farewell.

About 2km out, about the time I got past the cliffs of Cape Campbell that shelter Marfell's beach, the same southwesterly gale from the day before hit with a renewed vengeance. Clyve had mentioned the wind usually blows from the other direction. I pondered this rather useless bit of meteorological trivia while pedaling hard and making about 10kph. After about an hour of this the temperature dropped precipitously and the rain began falling in earnest. By the time I saw the sign for the Pedaller's Rest cyclist hostel through my completely fogged up sunglasses I was completely drenched and quite cold. I think their sign by the side of the road with a rusty bicycle on top is one of the finest sites I've come across so far. A few hours after taking a long and luxurious hot shower a young couple from Spain, pushed their bikes up to the hostel. I imagine I looked as wet and bedraggled as they when I arrives. Sadly they don't speak much English. I of course am completely monolingual, but we managed to communicate to each other just how nice, and nicely situated is the Pedaller's Rest cyclist hostel.