Day 23

Pedaller's Rest Cycle Hostel to Kiakoura 76 km

I eventually learned the names of the cyclists staying with me at the Pedaller's Rest. Actually Edgar and Maria, both of whom are from Barcelona, saved $8.00 and stayed outside in their tent. I splurged the extra $4.00 and had the inside of the guest house to myself. I think the next morning after it had rained all night they might have wished they'd stayed inside. Even so they seemed happy to roll up their sopping rainfly and come inside to have breakfast. I was up a bit earlier and on my way while they were still eating.

The day was quite overcast but the winds had stopped (yeah) The road south to Kiakoura is quite flat as it tracks the coast and I managed 20kph over the entire distance. The east coast of the south island is very pretty, continuing to remind me of the coast of N. California.

I learned that Kiakoura is a Maori word for 'to eat crayfish'. All things considered I can see why. I stopped at this little seaside shack that advertised freshly boiled crayfish, also known as New Zealand Rock Lobsters. $50.00! I mentally thanked Clyve again and instead had a Paua patti sandwich for $6.00. It was so good I had a second. A very nice change from the peanut butter, honey and bananas that's been gracing my bread with each day.

I arrived in Kiakoura about 1:30 and set up my tent at the Holiday park. After a nice long hot shower I set off to find a second lunch. $95.00 for a whole crayfish! Once again imparting blessings on Clyve and his wife Ruth I noticed the local tavern had a Porter house steak for $14.50. I decided to wait a while to eat so instead went about looking for an internet cafe to update blogs and look at the weather.

It would appear I have a week of good weather ahead. Instead of continuing south all the way to ChristChurch as was the plan (such as there is a plan) I think I'll take advantage of the promised good weather--apparently it has been raining a lot here on the south island--and make a crossing of the southern alps to Westport. All the locals I've talked with say the east coast is nothing in comparison, scenery wise, to the west coast.

The sun came out briefly and I got a view of the seaward Kiakoura mountains. Very impressive. Much like the view of the Wasatch Front from SLC but instead of bounded on the other side by the stinky great salt lake they have the pacific ocean. Actually the seal colonies are rather odoriferous but still; brine ship vs. NZ rock lobsters?